APPLIED ART : COSTUME

Day Dress

1909
1909

colour : white. design : c/b opening hook fastening plain stand up collar comprising machine embroidered inset, trefoil motifs between bands of white muslin each with one fine machine tuck. The bodice front has a rectangular neck inset with fine close parallel tucks bounded by embroiderd band as on collar. On either side of this inset an embroidered band runs from chest to waistband at a slight angle. Between these the front bodice is gathered to waistband. There are vertical tucks from shoulder to top of angled bands and from bottom of neck inset. Waistband comprises two embroidered bands. The long narrow set in sleeves are tucked horizontally in groups of three and five tucks and have embroidered band at cuff with hooked opening. Back bodice is worked as the front except that shoulder below inset tucks extendto waistband with no angled bands. The fullness of the flared skirt is attached to waistband by vertical tucks at sides and back, deep machine embroidered scalloped edge muslin flounce is attached to an embroidered band at the bottom of skirt. This flounce has floral padded and geometric motifs with cut-work. worn by donor's sister who was in London from Austria for King George V's cornation Exhbition Label, La Belle Epoque 2020 Day Dress 1909 Silk Affleck & Brown of Manchester English The bodice of this dress has rectangular neck insert that accentuates the fashionably low hanging “mono-bosom” effect caused by the ‘S’ bend corset. During this period skirts were cut long and straight in front and flowing at the back, both for day and evening wear. Dress reformists, however, campaigned dress trains to be abolished, believing them to be partially responsible for the spread of dirt, dust, and therefore, disease. Measurements: 1. Around waist: 61cm 2. Around bust: 84cm (ref bust to waist = 21cm) 3.Around ribcage: 70cm (ref 8cm below bust) 4. Bust point to bust point: 26cms 5. Shoulder pt to side waist: 40cms 6. Nape to back waist: 41cm 7. Across front: 35.5cm (ref 15cms below shoulder pt( 8. Across back 32 (ref 15 cms below shoulder pt) 9. Length of shoulder: 10.3cm 10. Front neckline to waist: 42cm 11. Back neckline to waist: 48cm 12. Length of arm/sleeve: 59cm 13. Around wristcuff: 20cm 14. Around biceps: 31cm (ref from shoulder pt 18cms) 15. Around forearm: 25cm (ref: 38cm) 16. Around hip: 85cms (ref from waist to hip=9cm) 17. Around bottom: 115cm (ref ot 21.5 cms from waist) 18. Front length skirt from waist: 117.5cm 19. Side length of skirt: 122cm 20. Back length of skirt: 121cm 21. Around hem: 270cm 22. Neck height: 7cm

cotton, muslin

BELUM.T2143

National Museums NI